Gluten free fish and chips: tempura battered fish with triple cooked chips

toby chips 3

We’ve been on holiday to Devon. We had three lots of friends to stay at various points and I (happily) did more cooking than I ever remember doing before in a two week period: roast chicken with mash, black pudding and orange glazed carrots, salted caramel chocolate cheesecake, chicken and prawn paella, raspberry ripple and pistachio parfait, dark chocolate mousse, bbq Moroccan lamb burgers, tabbbouleh with pomegranate and mint, freekeh with coriander and feta, lemon mousse and lemon pastry biscuits, Mexican pulled chicken with homemade coleslaw and bbq corn on the cob, hot chocolate mousse (the one I made on Masterchef), meatballs with tagliatelle, chocolate, nougat and pistachio semifredo, cheesy pasta bake with the leftover mince from making the meatballs, Korean Bulgogi chicken skewers, garlic prawns, Chinese Char Siu stiky ribs and rice noodle salad with sesame dressing, gluten free fish and chips, chocolate cornflake crispy cakes and gluten free birthday cake (Mr Arabella Cooks and I have the same birthday and it fell on the penultimate day of the holiday).

The brilliant joviality of the evenings and far too much wine) meant that I stupidly forgot to photograph much of the food. I also nearly sliced off the tips of two of my fingers whilst making the coleslaw. There was a disproportionate amount of blood (rivers of the stuff). The friends staying that night assured me this was because I’d thinned my blood with alcohol. Luckily that also served to numb the pain and anyway it wasn’t really serious so I didn’t need to have them stitched. Also luckily I did have the wherewithal to start taking photos at around the lemon mousse evening so I do at least have a few recipes to share with you. The one I got the most excited about was the fish and chips because Delilah (the coeliac) had been asking if she could have some fish and chip shop fish and chips (which of course she can’t) so I had promised to make her some at home. I found a cute retro chip serving kit in John Lewis to authenticate the experience and she couldn’t get enough of them. Triple cooking chips makes them gorgeously crispy on the outside and fluffy and light on the inside.

lilah chips 3      lilah chips 5

She was less enthusiastic about the fish because she is without doubt the fussiest eater on the planet, but she gallantly ate almost a whole goujon before admitting she’d probably prefer a gluten free mass produced fish finger. Mr Arabella Cooks and I had a whole battered fillet each however and they were delicious. Gluten free flour works so well for this because you don’t actually want any gluten in your batter. Recipes for it warn you not to overwhisk the mixture and release the gluten in the flour as that would make it heavy and tempura batter needs to be fairy light and crispy. Frankly I don’t know why everyone doesn’t just use gluten free flour in the first place. Don’t be put off that this isn’t a big butch beer batter – the lovely light tempura batter is gorgeous.

Gluten free tempura battered fish ingredients (serves four):

  • 4 white fish fillets (sustainably sourced cod, pollock etc)
  • Oil for frying (choose one with a high smoke point like sunflower or groundnut)
  • 100g corn flour
  • 150g gluten free plain flour
  • 10g baking powder
  • 1/2 a teaspoon of table salt
  • enough iced sparkling water to make a batter that will coat your finger (or more importantly your fish or whatever you want to fry. Don’t deep fry your finger, obviously). About 150ml.

Method:

  1. Heat your deep fat fryer, or oil in a heavy bottomed pan (no more than half full) on the stove top.
  2. Mix the flours, salt and baking powder together in a large bowl.
  3. Slowly add the iced water, stirring gently (DO NOT overstir).
  4. Make sure your fish fillets are bone dry. When the oil has reached 180ºC dip the fillets one by one into the batter. Make sure they are completely covered. Lower each fillet slowly into the hot oil. When the bottom of the fillet is submerged in the oil, wave it around from side to side, gently, for a few seconds, before letting go. Don’t splash yourself.
  5. The fillet is cooked once it’s turned a beautiful golden brown, usually about 3-4 minutes. Don’t overcrowd your pan or fryer as that will lower the temperature of the oil (which needs to stay nice and hot at 180ºC). I did all mine separately. Use a slotted spoon to remove the fillets from the hot oil once cooked if using a pan and drain on kitchen paper.

Triple cooked chips ingredients (serves four):

  • 800g Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and cut into chips (roughly 2 × 2 × 6cm)
  • Groundnut or vegetable oil for frying
  • Salt

Method:

  1. Rinse the chips for a few minutes to remove the starch
  2. Put the potatoes into a large saucepan with enough cold water to cover them. Bring the to the boil and simmer for about 10 minutes until tender. Heston Blumenthal recommends 20-30 minutes until the potatoes are almost falling apart but I couldn’t wait that long.
  3. Carefully drain the potatoes and dry them on a cooling rack (not on kitchen towel or they’ll go soggy). Put them in the freezer for as long as you can (Heston says an hour; I didn’t have an hour more like 20 minutes and they still worked).
  4. Heat a deep-fat fryer or a deep pan no more than half filled with oil (around 10 centimetres) to 130ºC.
  5. Fry the chips in small batches until crisp but not coloured (about five minutes), remove from the oil and drain on kitchen paper.
  6. Put the potatoes back onto the cooling rack and back in the freezer. Again, Heston says for an hour. I didn’t have that long (who starts cooking chips three hours before they want to eat them?). Half an hour would be good. I think I waited about 10 minutes.
  7. Heat the oil in the fryer or pan to 180ºC and fry the chips until golden (approximately seven minutes). Remove from the oil, drain on kitchen towel and sprinkle them with salt. Mr Arabella Cooks had some cider vinegar on his too. Eat. Yummo!

lilah chips 4    toby chips 2

Moroccan lamb cutlets, crushed new potatoes, peas and mint, and some carrot, sweet potato and ginger soup

soup 2   cooked cutlets  

I ended up cooking (by which I mean creating something from scratch) twice today, by accident. I usually have something simple for lunch (an ITSU cup soup, some salad leaves with smoked salmon or goats cheese with chutney) but a dear friend came for lunch at the last minute, I had ‘nothing in’ and had to be creative. So I made carrot, sweet potato and ginger soup with what I had in the fridge. And it was really rather lovely, especially with the sourdough bread I found at the back of the freezer. So I think it’s worth sharing the recipe for. Then for dinner – I’d defrosted some lamb cutlets I’d had to freeze when an over enthusiastic butcher had chopped up the lamb rack I’d intended to cook covered in mustard and herbs for a dinner party (and was too British to complain about) and had been mooching about on the internet looking for something interesting to do with them, when I came across a fork and a pencil (v good food blog do have a look) and decided to make their golden Moroccan lamb cutlets because I was tired, there weren’t many ingredients or processes and they sounded yummy. And they were!  I added smashed new potatoes along with the peas and mint, and Mr AC says it was a thing of deliciousness and beauty and I am allowed to cook it again (along with plenty of other compliments about how lucky he is, what a splendid wife I am etc etc – it’s nearly father’s day, our anniversary and our birthday – 23 July yes both of us on the same day since you ask…..) So here we are with the recipe(s)..

Carrot, sweet potato and ginger soup (serves 6):

Ingredients:

  • Three medium sized sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped
  • 6 small/3 medium sized carrots, peeled and chopped
  • Two small/1 medium sized onions (you could use white/yellow or red), diced
  • One large clove of garlic, pressed/chopped/bashed
  • A thumb sized piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped
  • One small or medium sized white potato, peeled and chopped (you could actually do without this if you don’t have one to hand)
  • 1 teaspoon of miso paste (use a gluten free brand if necessary. I use the Yutaka brand from Sainsbury’s which is gluten free)
  • 1 litre of vegetable stock
  • 1 or 2 tablespoons of single cream (optional; you could also just swirl yoghurt in before serving)
  • Salt and pepper

Method:

1) Sautee the onion in olive oil over a medium heat for 5 minutes.

2) Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 1 ish minute more.

3) Add the miso, stir and cook for another minute or two.

4) Add the carrot, sweet potato and white potato.

5) Stir and cook for another two minutes. Add salt and pepper.

6) Add the stock, bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes until the white potatoes and carrots are cooked through and soft.

7) Use a hand blender to puree it to a smooth consistency. Add extra boiled water if too thick (add extra stock – perhaps a crumble of stock cube, which I did – if you’re going to end up with diluted flavour) and finally add the single cream, and serve, with sliced, warm sourdough, ciabatta or baguette and lots of butter. Yummmm.

Nice additions/alternatives:

  • Add some chopped red chilli when you add the ginger and some smooth peanut butter after blending, along with some cayenne pepper/chilli powder, coriander and chopped, salted peanuts for a bit of North African punch.
  • Replace the ginger with smoked sweet paprika, and add some fried bacon/lardons at the end to serve. Yummmmo!

Golden lamb cutlets with smashed new potatoes, petit pois and mint (Serves one person with a normal appetite or two people being very polite on a first date (you’ll notice my photos only include two cutlets; I am not going on any first dates though)

Ingredients:

  • 4 lamb cutlets
  • 1 tablespoon of of ras el hanout (spice blend; available at most supermarkets)
  • 1 tablespoon of turmeric
  • 1/2 a teaspoon of sea salt flakes
  • 150g of new potatoes (baby or jersey royals all good)
  • 1 banana shallot, finely chopped
  • 250g of frozen petit pois
  • a handful of chopped fresh mint
  • some salted butter
  • Salt and pepper

Method:

1) Bash the lamb cutlets with a meat mallet or rolling pin (you can put a piece of cling film over them but I didn’t bother) to make them thinner.

2) Place the cutlets in a plastic sandwich bag, and add the ras el hanout, turmeric and salt. Close the bag and shake till the cutlets are covered in the spices.

fanned cutlets

3) Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat,  and cook the cutlets for 2-3 minutes each side (depending on how you like your lamb done), then transfer them to a sheet of tinfoil folded over to make them a little sealed but tented cocoon, and rest.

4) Meanwhile put the potatoes on to boil, with some fresh mint – 15-20 minutes until soft.

5) Sautee the chopped shallot in the same pan you cooked the lamb in, for about 3 minutes, until soft. Add the peas and cook for another 3 minutes until they are soft. Take off the heat and reserve.

5) Once the potatoes are cooked, run the cold tap over them and my advice would be to put on some of those latex gloves you can get in chemist shops and peel off the skins.. The gloves really do prevent you burning your fingers, taking the skin off the potatoes is essential, and NOBODY wants to peel new potatoes. And the gloves are cheap.

6) Add some salted butter to the new potatoes; add some chopped mint, crush them with a potato masher and mix together with the petit pois.

7) To serve, put some potato and pea mixture on a plate and arrange the cutlets attractively on top. Y U M!

(I served it with the juices from the cutlets while they’d been resting, and some mayonnaise mixed with wholegrain mustard, but Mr AC said he thought the mustard might overpower the flavours of the lamb and potatoes if you weren’t careful. So be careful).

cutlets with mayo